Historical Places
There are few notable places in or
around Ludhiana. The tomb of Pir
Roshan, i.e., Pir Qadir Jalani, in the open space to the south of the fort, has
already been referred to. There is also
an old tomb, in the Sayyed’s mohalla of one of their ancestors (Saiyed
ali Fil Mast), and several Hindu tamples (Shivalas and Thakarduwaras) which are
not very old.
Near the city lie a few old
Muhammadan remains. These are
Shaikhanwali masjid and a tomb near the fort.
The mosque, which has two mainarets and three domes, was built in the
time of Aurangzeb and the Khanaqah of Suleman Shah Chisti, a square domeless
tomb, is probably unfinished. The
Khanazah of Saiyed Ali Sarmast, two tombs and a mosque in an enclosure are situated
outside Purana Bazar. One tomb is
octagonal and underneath it is a tahkhanah.
The second tomb, according to an inscription, was built in A. H. 978.
(1570 A. D.). The first tomb was
probably built in the time of the Tughluqs.
The Khanqah of Shah Qutb, west of thr orad to Phillaur, is said to have
been standing for the last over six and a half centuries. The walls of the enclosure and the pavement
are evidently of bricks from Sunet ; the khanqah of Sayyed Ali Buzarg, a brick
tomb is said to have been built over three and a half centuries ago.
To the north of the city, the fort
is situated on a point of the ridge over-looking the lowlands. It is a square structure with a high mud
wall and a deep ditch, the inside measuring about 100 metres each way ; and it
owes its present form to sir D. Ochterlony, who made use of the bricks found in
the neighbouring ruins of Sunet for building the fort.
To the west of the Railway Station and
behind the district offices the old Rakh (plantation), commonly known as Rakh
Garden, which contained a Municipal Swimming Pool, has recently been greatly
reduced in extent. Except the Pool and
small surrounding area, the locality has almost completely buildings and
residential houses. The old cantonment
has completely disappeared, except some houses and a few offices close to the
town and the church and the cemetery.
Malaudh. - The historical
town is situated at a distance of about 40 kilometres from Ludhiana on
Ludhiana-Ahmedgarh Road – linked by approach road from Kup. It lies on 75o- 56’ Longitude and
30o – 38’ Latitude. Malaudh
appears to be a very ancient place where the well known Mallas, with whom
Multan or Mallustan is associated, are said to have attained prominence in a
battle against the local people. as a
result of their victory the place came to be known as Malla Udey- rise of the
Mallas. In course of time it baceme corrupted
as Malaudh. There was a Theh Loharan
about 1 kilometer on southern side, which has now disappeared. It was in 1754 that Sardar Man Sing
conquered the fort from the Malerkotla Afghans. Thereafter Malaudh remained under the Sardars. The town had a
fortification wall which has been pulled down.
Malaudh is also connected with the Namdhari attack on Malerkotla. In 1872 a batch of Namdharis approached the
Sardar for assistance and murdered him on his refusal to join hands with them.
Maladh has a Government High
School (Co-educational), Middle School for girls and a Primary School for boys,
a Post Office, Primary Health Centre and a Veterinary Dispensary.
Payal. – Payal is the headquarters of
the sub-tahsil of the said name in Ludhiana tahsil. It is about 37 kilometres from the district headquarters. It lies 30o – 43’ north and 76o
– 7’ east. Payal is about 10 kilometres
from Chawa Railway station by road. It
is linked with G. T. Road at a distance of 13 kilometres from Khanna on
Ludhiana side and also with Malerkotla by metalled road. The town is situated on an old mound.
As a part of the former
Princely State of Patiala, Payla was a sub-tahsil of Dhuri tahsil under Sunam
Nizamat (district). On the formation of Pepsu in 1948 its status was raised to
that of a tahsil and it was placed under Bassi Nizamat (district). From August, 1953 onwards Payal was attached
to Amloh sub-tahsil of Sirhind tahsil, Patiala district. From February, 1954, Payal was again raised
to the status of sub-tahisl attached to Sirhind tahsil, Patiala district. From November, 1963, Payal sub-tahisl,
comprising 86 villages, including Payal, has been attached to Ludhiana tahsil.
Payal has an interesting
historical background. Some 760 years
ago Shah Hassan, a Mohammadan Faqir, took up his a bode on the old mound. He was followed by some Seoni Khatries of
Chiniot, who settled there at the suggestion of the Faqui. Whil digging the foundation, a Payal or
Pazeb (a women’s foot ornament) was found at the place. The Faqir advised his followers to name the
new habitation after the ornament. The
founder’s tomb stands in the town. In
A. D., 1236 Malik Ala-ud-Din Jani, who had rebelled against Sultana Razia, was
killed by the supporters of the Sultan near Payal. During Emperor Akbar’s reign Payal was made a Pargana of
sirhind. The town gradually grew in
importance under the Mughals. Ibrahim
Hussain Mirza, a relative of Emperor Akbar’s reign Payal was made a Pargana of
Sirhind. The town gradually grew in
importance under the Mughals. Ibrahim Hussain Mirza, a relative of Emperor
Akbar’s reign Payal was made a Pargana of Sirhind. The town gradually grew in importance under the Mughals. Ibrahim Hussain Mirza, a relative of Emperor
Akbar, on account of hostile attitude towards the Emperor, had fled to the
Punjab. He plundered Sirhind in A.
D> 1573 and ravaged the country around it.
according to Mullah Abdul Qadir, author of Muntakhib-ut-Tawarikh : “His
men, when he arrived at Payal, committed such atrocities upon the Muslim population
as cannot be described”. The Mirza was,
however, hotly pursued by the imperial forces into the Punjab and thence to
Multan where he died a wounded prisoner.”
It was at Payal again, that,
during his expeditionary march to the Punjab in 1581 A. D., Emperor Akbar got
the good news that his rebel half-brother Mohd. Hakim, the ruler of Kabul, who
had set pout for the capture of Lahore, had withdrawn from the Punjab. Under the Later Mughals Payal formed a pargana of the Pathan State of
Patiala in 1766. The town is by no
means an important trade centre. Among
the local industries may be mentioned carving of door frames or manufacture of
raths and bahlis by the carpenters. Light country shoes are also made there.
There is an old fort in
Payal. The name of the ruler who
constructed it is not known. Its
interior is fast crumbling. Presently
the local Girls Primary School is housed in the serviceable portion.
Close to the fort there is a
temple of Ram Chander. Dusehra mela is
held every year. There is also ‘Dasnam
Ka Akhara’ – a temple, another of this type is said to be in Varanasi. There is also a Devi temple constructed over
a hundred years ago.
Payal has a Government High
School for Boys with Basic Classes, a Government Middle School for Girls, a
Primary Health Centre, Veterinary Dispensary,
police Station, Post and Telegraph Officer with telephone facilities and
a Ladies and Children’s Park.
Qila Raipur.
– Qila
Raipur is linked with Ludhiana by rail and road. By rail it is at a distance of 18 kilometres and by road nearly
21 kilometres on Dehlon-Gujjarwal Road.
It lies in 75o – 49’ – 30” Longitude and 30o-45’ –
45” Latitude. Its population in 1961
was 4,928. It has Government High
Schools for boys and girls, the latter with basic class, a Veterinary
dispensary and a post office with telephone facility. The village has a
panchayat.
Qila Raipur is famous as a
sports centre. In the month of February
Grewal sports tournament is held here every year. The 34th tournament was held in February, 1969.
A historical gurdwara, named
Damdama Sahib, outside the village was built in memory of the 9th Guru Teg
Bahadur. About a kilometer to the
north-east of the village is the Akhara of Shri Dev Puri, an ashram which provides
free boarding and lodging for Sadhus.
Its own 250 bighas of land attached to the Ashram. Some two hundred inmates of the Ashram
attend to all jobs from ploughing the fields to cobbling the shoes, etc., by
themselves. Residential arrangements
have been made in cubicles and in a big circular thatched pavilion. The Ashram has amenities like electric and
water supply. With the produce
from the land attached to the Akhara and donations in kind from
the people of the surrounding area, a
community kitchen is run for the
benefit of the visiting and resident Sadhus, who are fed in a spacious hall
close to it. The Sadhus going out on
pilgrimage or to other stations may leave their belongings in the pavilion
where several bundles are seen hanging from the beams of the thatched ceiling. The multi-storeyed Samadh of the founder of
the Akhara, Sawami Dev Puri, who died some years ago, is under construction.
Rara.
(Shaib). - 13 kilometres from Payal on the bank of the
Sirhind canal there is a big Gurdwara called Rara Sahib. It lies on 75o-57’ Longitude and
30o – 43’ Latitude. Sant
Ishar Singh is the head of the institution.
This Gurdwara (Karamsar) was constructed in 1936. The people of Katari-
a village on the other bank of canal, donated 50 Bighas of land for the
purpose. Presently the Gurdwara has
also acquired a 200-Bigha farm. Its
produce is used for running the ‘langar’.
The Gurdwara has a very
spacious Diwan hall recently completed with ultra modern light and sound
fittings. It can accommodate about
4,000 persons. In front of the hall a
vast enclosure is proposed to be utilized for open air Dewan on moon lit nights
in summer. Sant Ishar Singh holds
religious discourses at Rara Sahinb and also is several other Gurdwaras.
Sahnewal. – To the south-east of
Ludhiana at a distance of about 16
kilometres, Sahnewal is situated on Amritsar – Ambala- Delhi main railway line
and the G. T. road. It lies on 75o
– 59’ – 05” Longitude and 30o – 50’ – 27” latitude. Its population was 3,830 in 1961 compared to
3,618 in 1951. The town has a
Government High School, Kanya Vidyala High School, Arya Girls School,
Dispensary with indoor facility and
Veterinary Hospital. There is a Police
Station, Post and Telegraph Office and Telephone Exchange. There is a Panchayat Library and tow other
public libraries.
On account of its location
near Ludhiana some Small-scale Industries have been developed there. it is a
good market for wheat, maize and groundnut.
A cattle fair is held half-yearly.
There is a historic Gurdwara
known as Damdama Sahib, which is said to have been built at the where Guru
Gobind Singh stayed for a short-while
after leaving Chamkaur. Free langar is
available at the place.
Siahar. – Siahar is at a distance of
19 kilometres from Payal on Payal Malerkotla Road linked by a kachha approach
road. It lies on 75o – 55’ Longitude
and 30o – 42’ Latitude. Guru Hargobind
is said to have stayed here. The dakki
(forest) where he stayed is situated at a distance of half a kilometre from the
village. In his memory a Gurdwara has
recencly been built there. His horse is
stated to have died here. The legend
goes that the Guru buried his dead horse with a costly doshala. This doshala was taken away by two low caste
residents who further sold it to the local money-lender. The fact was reported to the Guru under
whose curse misfortune fell on the miscreants.
Big diwan is held in siahar
on Guru Hargobind’s birthday in the month of Asadh (June), on Kartika
Puranmashi (October) and 7th Pausa (December) every year.
Sunet. – Five kilometres from
Ludhiana, on Ludhiana-Jagraon Road, the ancient village of Sunet is
situated. The place is also popularly
known as Ucha Pind and Kacha pind probably on account of the existence of an
old mound there. Its population
was1,622 persons in 1961 against 1,575 in 1951. It has a Government(Co-educational ) Middle School. There is a Branch Post Office run by a
Part-time teacher. The village falls
within has a panchayat. Sunet is famous
for the huge mound, which is said to have measured 17,550 ft. in length and
1,200 ft. in breadth at the time it was visited by sir Alexander Cunningham in
1878-79. At present the mound has
greatly shrunk in size. A small portion
still remains. Pieces of ancient bricks
and potsherds are found scattered in large quantities. Numerous terracotta seals and other
antiquities have been found from the place.
Some interested persons have also antiquities have been found from the
place. Some interest persons have also
collected a number of coins, clay seals and other relics fro the site7.
7. Several coin moulds, burnt clay seals and
other objects procured from Shri harbans Singh of Ghulai have been displayed in
the historical museum of the State Archives at Patiala.
The place is undoubtedly of
great antiquity as vouched by the number and the variety of old coins found
there. Sir Alexander Cunningham in his
own report had acknowledged the collection of more than 1,000 coins, which
related mostly to pre-muslim period8.on the basis of the
overwhelming numismatic evidence it was inferred by him that the town of Sunet
was in existence before the Christian era.
The fact was proved by the coins of Uttama-Datta and Amogha- Bhuti9.
It continued to flourish down to the time of Samanta – Deva, the Brahmin King
of Kabul and the Punjab, about 900 A. D.
8. Report on “A tour in the Punjab, 1878-79”
by Sir Alexander Cunnigham, Vol. XIV PP. 65-67, 1882.
9. Sunet is also believed to be a later
capital of the Yaudheyas on the basis of these coins, Ibid, p. 65, 1882
Since no coins of the Tomara
Rajas of Delhi or of the various Mohammadan dynasties have been found, it is
believed that Sunet must have been destroyed during one of the early invasions
of Muhmud of Ghazni. The place remined
uninhabited for centuries thereafter.
The above conclusions are
broadly confirmed by the report of Tolbort. Which confirms that vast quantities
of building material have been obtained from the place by the people of the
surrounding areas. about the history of
Sunet very little is known beyond the popular belief that the place suffered a
convulaion on account of the curse on the king. According to the fable Raja Maj Gend or Ponwar of Sunet treated
his subjects with great violence and cruelty.
The king, being afflicted with ulcer was told that human flesh would do
him good. So he had ordered that a
human being might be brought from each household as occasion might
require. One day it so happened that it
was the turn of the only child of a widow.
As the king’s agents came to take away the boy, the mother’s tears moved
a holy man, who made an unsuccessful attempt to turn away the soldiers. In his rage he had cursed the town and its
king to be destroyed. So it happened
that the town was buried underground.
Another
legend has it: Sirkap , the ruler of Sunnet10 was in the habit of
eating one goat a day. The supply of the goats having failed, his cook
served up the flesh of a young child.
The Raja noticed the difference and the cook explained the difficulty. Sirkap
was satisfied and ordered the cook to serve up
a young child daily. When it was the turn of the child of a Brahman
widow the mother rushed to Mirhoto (Ludhiana) and implored the great Saint Kutb
Shah to save her child. The Saint
obliged by killing the cruel king. The name of the Muslim Saint suggested the
existence of Awans, who were actually found
at Ludhiana . the story might have been connected with Sirkap by the
Awan colonists of Ludhiana on their migration from Awan- kari district situated between Jhelhm and Indus.
10. In the Shajra Nasab Bandobast, 1882,” the origin of the name of the village is
given as King Sarkap laid the
foundation of the new town on a gold brick ‘Sone KL Int’, whereby it got the
name ‘Sone Int”. It became popularly known as Sunet”. It is further explained
that the earlier town had been completely deserted since long. The ancestors of the present owners on
setting at the place retained the old name.
Some gold coins were discovered from the site.
(c) Jagraon Tahsil
Jagraon tahsil of the
Ludhiana district, with an area (1064.60 Sq. kilometres) in 1961, lies on the south bank of the
Satluj between 30’-35’ and 30’-59’ north and 75’-22’ and 75’-47’East. It is
bounded on the East by Ludhiana tahsil
on the North by Jallandhur district, on the West by Ferozepore district and on
the South by Sangrur district. The tahsil and the population of 242,662 in 1961
as against that of 208646 in 1951. it contains the towns of Jagraon proper
(population 29,617in 1961), which is the tahsil headquarters, Raikot
(population 11,239 in 1961) and 163 villages. The historic battle field of
Aliwal (1846)is situated in this tahsil.
Bhundri.-
Bhundri is
a small village , about 26 kilometres north of Jagraon in the same tahsil. It
lies on 75’-35’ Longitude and 30’-57’ Latitudw. It is linked by road with
Chauki Man –a railway station on Ludhiana –Ferozepore Railway line. The village
has a Panchayat, a Middle School (Co-educational), a Veterinary Hospital and a
Sub- Post Office attached to the school. There is a Primary Health Centre under
the Community Development Block. Its population was 882 in 1961 against 334 in
1951.
The village has been
constantly inhabited since its foundation. The revenue records reveal that the
original settlement was started by Bhunder
Mallah (Boatman), also known as Bhunderke, who had to relinquish possession under adverse circumstances. Some eleven
generations ago Rana Ladho Rajput, on account of his differences with fellow
Rajputs, migrated to the place from Hatur and acquired proprietary rights of
the village with the permission of the ruler of the day. Ever since the village
has been owned by his descendants in the form of (Patties or divisions.)
The
place was the scene of one of the battles of the First Anglo-Sikh War, 1846.
the action was fought here on 28th, January ,1846. To commemorate the battle a
lofty column about 60’-70’ high was raised on a platform about 10 ft. high by
the British in 1870. A stone slab giving the description of the battle in
English was fixed on one side. It has since fallen down. The platform carries
on three sides the dates of the battle in Punjabi, Urdu and English. On the
fourth the legend ‘Erected in 1870 gives the date of the commemoration column.
Guru Sar
Sadhar:- 12
kilometres from Raikot, 35 kilometres from Jagraon and 26 kilometres from
Ludhiana itself, Guru Sar Sadhar is associated with the sixth Guru Hargobind,
who spent 5-6 months at the place. It lies on 75’-38’ Longitude and 30’-46’
Latitude. The development of this dry area into a fertile and flourishing agricultural
land was largely due to the efforts of the Guru ,who dug many wells and
established a Sar or Sarowar near the halmet of his devotee Bhai Jiwanda of
village Sadhar. It was here in the month of
September. A.D/ 1631 that a powerful Muslim adherent of the Guru,Rai
Jodh of Kangar, his pious wife and son, Chain Beg, came to pay homage to the
Guru and placed at his disposal 500 horsemen, which greatly helped the Guru in
his last 2 battles against the Mughal forces. It was at this place that about
1,200 Sikhs from Kabul and Kandhar came to pay homage to Guru Hargobind under
the leadershop of their masands, Tara Chand, Bakhat Mal and Bhai Dayala. During the stay of the Guru at Sadhar Bhai
Karoria, another disciple, offered Rs 2 lakhs and regretfully reported that two
valuable horses brought by him for the Guru from Kabul had been forcibly taken
away by the Mughal officials on the way.
Guru Hargobind deputed his trusted disciple, Bhai Didhi Chand, who, with the help of Bhai Jiwan, a carpenter
of Lahore, brought the horses to the guru by risking his life. Impressed by the dedication and devotion of
Bhai Jawanda, the Guru bestowed upon him a pair of his shoes as a gift. The shoe is still in the possession of the
descendants of Bhai Jawanda and can be seen at their house or can be brought to
the nearby Gurdwara on making a suitable offering.
On
every full moon-day a big diwan is held at the Gurdwara which lasts till 8 in
the evening.
There
is a Government School for Girls, G. H. G. Kahlsa College and College of
Education with basic and B. Ed. Classes in a beautiful building. The Primary Health Unit is housed in new
Ranjit Memorial Building. The village
has a Police Post, 2 Post Offices, one in the village and the other in the
College of Education. There is a
Panchayat and a Library. Guru Sar
Sadhar has acquired great importance on account of the development of Halwara
Colony about 2 kilometres away. A
beautiful market has sprung up on the road and the two places have thus become
linked together. The population of Guru
Sar Sadhar was 2,923 in 1961 as compared to 2,731 in 1951.
Hatur. – Hatur is a village in
Jagraon tahsil about 25 kilometres from the latter. It lies on 30o – 36’ – 16” latitude and 75o
– 25’ –48” longitude. Its population
was 3,695 persons in 1961 as against the figures of 3,063 in 1951.
The
present village, continually inhabited, was founded close to the old mounds
which are believed to be a very ancient.
At the old site, also called Arura and identified with ancient
Ahichetti, Lord Mahavira is said to have performed char-mansa or four months’
recess in the timw of Raja Kanaketu.
The place was at that time known as Aichata nagari (see 14th
and 15th pages of the Dharam Katha). General Cunningham holds that Bhadaur may be identified with
Arhatpur, which is undoubtedlynamed afterLord Mahavira, the Jaina Tirthankar or
Arhat. Old coins and antiquities have
been found at the mounds. People say
that the ancient name of the place is Ahichatta and that its ruler, Raja
Buddhamati, composed a work in Prakarit, entitled Dharma Katha, which is still
used by the Puja tribe in the District.
In the 15th Chapter of this book, it is mentioned that a former princes
of the city of Ahichatta, named Kanaka Ketu, reigned at the time of Mahavira
Swami. Under him the town was so large
that Bhadaur and the adjoining villages were the suburbs of Arura.
Among
th enotable monuments and Hatur may be mentioned a Maqbara of Rai Ferozwala,
near the village. The heirs of Rai
Firoz were in possession of the buildingand continued to live in the village
till the partition of the Punjab in 1947, when they migrated to West
Pakistan. 30 – 35 years ago a big mela
used to be held at the Maqbara. Some
people still visit the Maqbara to pay respect and make offerings there. The
place is, however, in very poor state of preservation. The roof of the building and the gates are
missing. The Azmat Khanwali Masjid, a
brick mosque said to have been built by the Mughal noble in the times of
Emperor Shah Jahan, and another mosque entitled barkhurdar Khanwali Masjid are
also in dilapidated condition and in disuse.
The Idgah and the Masjid jail Khanwali are completely ruined. The
Nikkamalwals Math, known to have been built in the time of Emperor
Humayun, is again completely demolished.
The
huge mounds or thehs are situated just outside the village. The outlying portions of the mounds have
already been brought under the plough. The process continues and even the
bigger mounds have suffered considerable erosion.
Since
all the exiting monuments at Hatur date back to the medieval period, it may be
inferred that the present habitation started in the time of the Delhi
Sultanate. Bharu and Lapal, sons of
Sheikh Chachu, who as a Rajput was called Tulsi Dass before he embraced Islam
in the 12th Century in the reign of Ghiyas-ud-Din Gauri, came to
Hatur and initially lived by plunder under the protection of Udho Panwar. Shortly afterwards Bharu made himself the
master of hatur and Lapal settled in the adjoining village of Shah-
jahanpur. Seventh in descent from Baaru
was Rai Kalha I, who took sefvice under, perhaps, the last of the Syed Sultans
of Delhi, probably in the beginning of the 15th Century. The family continued as a feudatory of the
Delhi empire (Zamindar or mustajir) under the Lodies and Mughals for several
generations. The original site might
have been the scene of mass scale destruction in consequence of repeated Muslim
invasions from the north-west. The
residents of Hatur believe that the place was deserted and reoccupied seven
times. The existing village is said to
have been founded the eighth time.
Hence the name hatur (probably meaning thereby that it was the ‘hasht’
or 8th occupation ).
Hatur
has a Government High School and a Government Girls Middle School. There are Civil and Veterinary Dispensaries
and a Primary Health Centre. The
village has a Post Office and a Panchayat.
The
construction of the metalled roads from Barnala to Hatur and to Jagraon and the
electrification of the village (already underway) are expected to greatly
increase the importance of the ancient village. Two cattle fairs are held at the place in April and October every
year.
Jagraon. – Jagraon is Municipal town
and the headquarters of the tahsil of the same name. It lies on the Northern Railway, 40 kilometres West of Ludhiana-
Ferozepore Road in 37o – 47’ – 15” Latitude and 75o – 28’
– 30” Longitude. It is the second
important town in the district and had the population of 29,617 in 1961 as compared to that of 24,519 in
1951.
The
town is not of great antiquity. It is said to have been founded about 250 years
ago by Rai Kalha with the blessings of a Mohammadan Faquir called Lape Shah,
who took up his site of the present town and prophesied that a big town would
grown there. Even the streets as they
run now were marked out by the Faquir.
Rai Kalha invited cultivators – Gujars, Arains and Jats from the surrounding
area and assigned them lands according to the number of each tribe. He also settled members of mercantile
community at the place and enclosed their dwelling with a wall, while the
agricultural population settled down on the land earmarked for each tribe
outside the town, the outlying areas wee enclosed with the usual hedges
(War). For the same reason the suburbs
got the designation of Agwars (Ag meaning forward or outer).
The
town was named after a Rajput Jirga or council, who were charged with the
growth of the town and were probably known as the Rai’s representatives. About 3 kilometres north of Jargaron on the
West of the Sidhwan Road is situated a mound of some dimensions. It is called Solah and marks the site of an
old village where the Agwars and adjacent villages of Sherpur, etc., are said
to have arisedn. It was here in 1802
that young Rai Alias met his death in the hunting field. Under the Ranis, who succeeded him, Ahmed
Gujjar, the thanedar or the local representative tried to assert his
independence. He was, however, expelled
with the help of the ruler of Patiala. In 1806 – 8 Maharaja Ranjit Singh
deprived the Ranis of their possessions.
The country around Jagraon passed into the hands of the Ahluwalia
(Kapurthala) chief. Under him the town
became the headquarters of the Ilaqa or territory. The mud fort of the Rais was improved. The town of Jagraon passed into British possession with the rest
of the Cis-Satluj territory after the first Anglo-sikh War, 1846, when the fort
was demolished.
Jagraon
may be said to be a town of Pirs. The
graves of some notable Pirs, such as Mohkam Din, Bandli Shah, Kheve Shah, Chup
Shah and Zahir Wali Shah are situated there and merit description.
Lape Shah. –
The small
mausoleum of Lape Shah stands in the heart of the town. On one of the walls there is a painting of a
camel and a dog. The legend has it that, led by the dog, the camel went round
the town with a pot hung from the neck.
Votaries of the Pir would put the food in the pot, which was brought by
the animal to the master. The Pir is
said to have himself laid out the streets of Jagraon. Every Thursday a fair is
held there and both Hindus and Mohammadans offer alms and light earthen lamps
filled with sarson oil. Lape Shah had
said that jargon would be destroyed by floods.
Accordingly the people still become panicky on even a slight indication
of flood at the place.
Hazart
Mohkam Din. – His khanqah is situated just outside the town. On Thursday people assemble there to offer oil, salt, sugar cakes
(Patashas) and flowers. From 13 – 15
Phalguna (middle of February) a big mela (Roshni) is held there and is attended
to by thousands of people. the Khanqah
has no regular attended. A local
residents, who has been entrusted with the keys by the Darvishes of Paona, a
village 5 kilometres away from Jagron, on Ferozepore road, opens the gate on
Thursdays. The building is well
maintained. Nearby is the grave of a
Hindu named Gandhi Mar. whom Mohkam Kin had cursed to be always insulted by the
people because in his desire to remain close to his master he had refused to go
a distant place. The grave is ruins and
is used as a dumping site.
The
graves of Zahir Wali Shah and Kheve Shah are
situated at a distance of about 3 kilometres from Jargaon outside Rehlan
agwar. People offer alms there on
Thursday. The graves being removed from
the town, very few people visit them.
Fairs
are held on the grave of Chup Shah on 11th and 12th Asadha when banners
(Jhande) and degs (cooked meals) are offered and on that of Bandhli Shah on
25th – 29th Asadha every
year.
Haveli
of K.B. Syed Moulvi Rajab Ali, 11once a magnifies building is in
ruins. The Havli seemed to have been originally built on every grand scale and
occupied the whole south–western side of the town. It was entered through lofty gates which could easily admit elephants.
The building contained several spacious halls and rose to three storeys. A mosque and a baradari, which contained a
big personal library to Syed Rajab Ali, a great scholar, were situated
alongwith the principal mansion. Even at present the ruined Havli is
occupied by several displaced
families. Nearby, the ldgah outside
Jagraon was built by Rajab Ali in 1264 A.H. corresponding to A.D. 1847. It has crumbled down. Jagraon was originally built as a fortified
town. The outer wal along the main gate has, however, been
pulled a down and at places houses have built on the older foundations. The grain market outside the town across the
railway line was built in A.D. 1906.
11.For a life-sketch of Maulvi Rajab Ali see Appendix I at pages 670-71.
Jagraon
has Lajpat Rai Memorial Degree College, Government Junior Basic Co-Educational
Training School, Government Higher Secondary School for Boys and a High School, a High School for Girls. There are two Middle Schools (Private) 5
Primary Schools, a civil Hospital,
Maternity Hospital, Vaternity Hospital and a civil Rest House. There are two Serais, one of them in a poor
condition, Lajpat Rai Memorial Library
and Jagraon Municipal Club. The town
has a Police Station, 3 Post Offices, a Telephone Exchange and a Telegraph Office.
Jagraon
has a flourishing market for cotton,
wheat, maize and gram. There are 2
cotton Ginning, Pressing and oil Mills.
Recently tractor-parts are manufactured at the places.
Every
month a cattle fair is held at Jagraon.
The town is surrounded by suburban areas.
Jagraon
has a cold storage. There are big
godowns maintained by P.W.D. with the following storage capacity : -
55
Bin with the capacity 380 quintals
1
Lahore Shed – 5,500 quintals
1
Ware–housing – 5,500 quintals
Lal
Kothi – 5,500 quintals
About
2 kilometres on Sindhwan Bet Road to the Left of the town is a fairly large
mound known a Solah. It is also
popularly called qabr of naugaza (grave of a yards long person). Baba Nand Singh of Kaleran, a renowned Saint
of the area is held to have practiced ‘Bhagti’ just close of the grave. The bhora (the underground cellar) dug by
the Baba has been filled up by the people.
Nanaksar. – The construction of a
splendid commemorative Gurdwara of the said name near the little known village
of Kaleran, one of the agwars of Jagraon, has given the place outstanding
religious importance. The Gurdwara is
about 5 kilometres from Jargaon by rail.
It is a Railway Flag station about 45 kilometres west of Ludhiana on the
Ludhiana-Ferozepore section of the Northern Railway. It lies in 30o – 47’ –
57” north Latitude and 75o – 25’ –26” east Longitude. Its population was 136 in 1961 as against 34 in 1951. The beautiful Gurdwara along with the tank
has been constructed through public contribution by S. Ishar Sing, a disciple
of Sant Nand sing, whose death anniversary is celebrated with great enthusiasm
by thousands of his followers for 3 days from 11th – 13th
Bhadra, i. e., in the third week of August every year. Thousands of persons visit the Gurdwara on
the occasion.
Underneath
back portion of the main building a gupha or deep hollow in the ground,
where Baba Nand Singh mediated, has been enclosed in marble in the form of room
and tastefully decorated. A flight of
stairs leads to the underground cellar.
A life size portrait of Baba Nand Singh rests on a costly bed. Visitors who perform or under take to
perform certain prescribed religious ceremonies are allowed to visit the
sanctum. The subterranean room is
richly, perfumed with incense which constantly burns there.
Baba
Nand Singh was born in Sherpur, an outlying village of jagraon. He had renounced the world and meditated in
guphas (underground cellars). To start
with he did not build a Pucca Gurdwara.
He had, however, drawn up a plan of the present Gurdwara and its
construction was started by Sant Ishar Singh in 1950. A very bigh tank and a beautiful Gurdwara in marble have been
built. The kalas or the cupola of the
Gurdwara is golden. A special feature
of the Gurdwara is that no cooking is allowed inside it and no money is to be
offered as charadwa or offering.
At
two places Akhandpath is held in the Gurdwara.
Side by side Jap Ji Sahib and Sukhmani Sahib are recited from morning
till evening.
The
tank was completed in a remarkably short period of 28 days. No women sewdars (attendants) are allowed to
stay in the Gurdwara. Sant Ishar Singh
occupied the gaddi for 13 years. At
present Bhai Sahib Kundan Singh, Bhai Sadhu Singh and Bhai Narain Singh are revognised as Hozoorias or principal
votaries. The roof of the Gurdwara has
been constructed like a fort. There are
4 minarets. There is a Shish Mahal
(hall of mirrors) in the Gurdwara, where Baba Nand Singh passed away. Only sewadars or special attendants and
pathis (reciters of prayers) are allowed to enter the specila apartments. The summer and winter clothes of Baba Nand
Singh have been preserved in a glass ward robe. About 100 sewadars permanently live in the Gurdwara. They do not draw any salary and are deemed
to have dedicated their lives for the service of the Gurdwara. People contribute in kind. Cooked food is brought there for
distribution in truck loads during the mela days..
Raikot. – The revenue records relating
to the year 1882 A. D. give the origin of its name as : “In the beginning Rai
Ahmed, the ruler of the day, started the habitation at the spot and built a Kot
(fortification) around it. The place
took the name after its founder with the addition of word Kot and, therefore,
came to be known as Raikot.”
Rais
were originally Hindu Rajputs, who had embraced Islam during the medieval
period. Their descendants had continued
to live there until 1947, when the last of them migrated to Pakistan. Raikot is situated at a distance of about 25
kilometres from Jagraon by road and is about 40 kilometres by direct road route
to the south west of Ludhiana. it lies
in 30o – 38’ – 57” North Latitude and 75o – 35’ – 59”
East Longitude. Its poupulation was
11,239 in 1961 as compared to 10,193 in 1951.
Raikot is a Municipal town.
Raikot has a Government Higher Secondary School for Boys and Government
High School for Girls with Basic Training Class. Attached to the Gurdwara Tahli Sahib there are 2 Khalsa High
Schools- one for Boys and the other for Girls.
There are a Civil Dispensary and a Veterinary Hospital under the Zila
Parishad.
Historical
Places. – The
palaces of the Rai Nawabs of Raikot, mostly in ruins, are now used for
residential purposes. In one of these a Primary School is also run. Raikot is famous for the historical gurdwara
called Tahliana. Guru gobind Singh came
here from Machhiwara on his way to Muktsar.
He sojourned at the place under a tree and asked a local resident, Nura
by name, to bring him some milk.
Apologetically he regretted his inability to provure any milk for the
Guru because no buffalo was in milk at the time. However, with the blessings of the Guru a she-buffalo, when tied
to a tree, was milched. The Guru gave
Nura a metal pot known as Gangasagar with many holes in it. miraculously, however, milk if pured into
the vessel will not folw out, but sand, when put in it, flowed out of the holes
of the vessel. Rai Kalha on being
informed of th epresence of the Guru at the place came to pay respect to
him. The Guru bestowed upon him a Patta
and a Khanda (sword). Out of his concen for the fate of two sons of th
Guru taken to Sirhind, Rai Kalha had deputed his employee, Nura, to bring first
hand information. On his return to
Raikot the messenger was so overwhelmed with grief on the tragic occurence that
he hesitated to break the shocking news to the Guru, who could, however, sense
his difficulty and required him to narrate whatever has transpired without any
fear. The Guru had, thorugh his own
intuition, understood what had happened to his sons. As a token of his resolve to end the cruel Mughal Government he
flourished his sword to cut a patch of grass at the place. The action was symbolic of his intrepid
efforts to end ‘Zalam Raj’. The sword
was presented by Imam Bux, the descendant of the Rais in 1854 to the Deputy
Commissioner, Ludhiana, for transmission to the governor General12
while the Gangasagar is stated to have been taken away to Pakistan by Inayat
Khan, a descendant of the Rais.
12.
See Appendix II at pages 671- 72.
Close
to the place where the Guru had halted for rest, about 1 kilometre away from
Raikot, a gurdwara known as Tahliana or Tahli Sahib was built through the
efforts of Sant Maghar Singh of Mohi in 1914.
Sant narainsingh, who had special interest in education, established tow
schools, one for the Boys and the other for the Girls in the estate attached to
the Gurdwara. Sant Nihal Singh was
responsible for the construction of an extension to the main Gurdwara near the
tree under which Guru had taken rest. A tank (sarovar) is also proposed to be
built at the site of the pond which separated the tree under which the Guru had
rasted from the other to which the buffalo had been tied.
About
13 kilometres from Raikot another Gurdwara connected with the visit of Guru
gobind Singh, to this area, has been built at Bassian in 1933. The Guru is said to have spent some time
with Rai Kalha at the place and played chess with him. For the same reason the Gurdwara is called
“shatranj Sahib”. A big dewan is held
there every year on 30th Phalguna and 1st and 2nd
Chaitra (about middle of March).
Tihara. – Tihara, though believed to
be an ancient site (the old town has long since disappeared in the river and no
traces there of remain) is situated about 22 kilometrea from jagraon on Sidhwan
Bet – Kishanpura road. It was a
well-populated village before partition in 1947. Thereafter it has become deserted and has lost its previous
importance. Earlier it had a good Mandi
with considerable trade. At present
almost all the houses are kachcha.
Tihara
has a government Middle School, Primary health Centre and a Post Officer
attached to the School. An Ayurvedic Dispensary Equipped with Family Planning
facilities is functioning there. It has
a panchayat. The population of the
village has arisen from 412 in 1951 to 537 in 1961.
There
is a Maqbara of Shah Diwan, where people come with offerings on Thursdays and
light earthern lamps with sarson oil.
It is said to have been built in the reign of Emperor Akbar.