CHAPTER XIX

PLACES OF INTEREST

 

Contents

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Introductory

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Sheesh Mahal

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Jama Masjid

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Sita Sar

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Suraj Kund

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Khangah Pir Bana Banoi

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Samadh Bhai Mool Chand

 

(a) Introductory

The district in general is rural region in the southern part of the State. Situated west of Patiala, it is virtually isolated from urban centre of the State. The most populous from the district is Malerkotla which too has population less than 1 lakh (65,759 persons).

The district can hardly boast of any place of tourist interest, although there are a few places of some historical or religious importance. The people by and large are Godfearing and have maintained gurudwaras and mandirs of historical importance. Given in the following pages are the places/villages, which according to local sources are known to have some historical, religious or even superstitious importance. Apart from these places, there are a few others which are developing as agricultural, marketing, industrial or trading nucleus of the district. 

Ahmedgarh. – Falling in the Malerkotla Tahsil, Ahmedgarh is a sub-tahsil. It was founded by Nawab Ahmed Ali Khan of Malerkotla in 1905. It lies about 18 km north of Malerkotla on the Sangrur-Ludhiana road. It is 50 km from Sangrur, the district headquarters, 26 km from Ludhiana and 98 km from Chandigarh. It is a railway station on the Ludhiana-Jakhal railway line.

Ahmedgarh is an important agricultural market. The main crops brought to this market are paddy & wheat. Being close to two industrial towns of Malerkotla and Ludhiana, a number of small-scale industries are being set up in and around this town too. Khurpas, kahis and daties and a few modern agricultural implements manufactured here are well known in the area. 

Thee are a M. G. M. N. Higher Secondary School for boys, two high schools for girls, a civil dispensary, a Zimindara Rest House and a post and telegraph office at Ahmedgarh. 

A class III municipal committee has been functioning in town since 1924. Its population as per 1981 Census was 16,673 persons, as against 12,499 in 1971.

Akoi. – Situated in the Sangrur Tahsil in the Malerkotla-Sangrur road, village Akoi lies about 5 km north of Sangrur, the district headquarters.

In the village, there is a gurudwara said to be associated with the visits of Guru Nanak Dev, Guru Hargobind and Guru Tagh Bahadur, the first, sixth and ninth Sikh Gurus respectively.  It is said that Guru Nanak Dev visited this place after visiting Nankiana. The sixth Guru, Guru Hargobind also stayed here about seven months. He blessed the place that milk will be available here in abundance, and his words are providing true. Guru Tegh bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru is also said to have visited this place on way to Delhi.

Maharaja Hira Singh of erstwhile princely states of Nabha, constructed the building of the gurudwara. This old building is being demolished and the new one is coming up. Three hundred & twenty-five bighas of land in Khilrian, Badrukhan and akoi villages belongs to the gurudwara.

The village has a primary school, a primary health centre and a veterinary dispensary. A government poultry farm is also functioning in the village.

The inhabitants of the village are mostly Khangoora Jats.

Badrukhan – Badrukhan is about 5 km from Sangrur, the district headquarters, on Sangrur-Barnala road. There are two versions about the nomenclature of the village. One is that it was named after badru, a pandit of this village, by Raja Gajpat Singh. Another version, which is more believable is that when Raja Gajpat Singh took control of these villages, (Vada Agwarh, Vichla Agwarh, Dalamwal, Dhaliwas and Thagan wali Patti) at that time very big tree Rukh (o[y) were standing here on the basis of which it came to be called Badrukhan Bade (pv/) Rukhan (o[yK).

The present village Badrukhan consists of five small village, which, during the times of Raja Gajpat Singh, were amalgamated and came to be known as Badrukhan. Prior to it, these villages were in badbar Thana and were being ruled by Nawab of Malerkotla. The residents of these villages were feeling insecure on account of the dacoities committed by Muslims. The leaders of these five villages, under the leadership of Pandit Badru, approached Gajpat Singh, the Maharaja of Jind, for their security and gave him 1700 bighas of land. Maharaja Gajpat Singh amalgamated these villages and named it Badrukhan. In 1763, when Gajpat Singh captured the town of Jind, Badrukhan was made the capital of Jind State. He also built the fort here. 

Badrukhan is believed to be the birth place of Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Raj Kaur, daughter of Gajpat Singh gave birth of maharaja Ranjit Singh on 13 November 1780 here. Maharaja Hira Singh of Nabha was also born here. Lieutenant General (Retd.) Harbaksh Singh (Vir Chakra) Major General Gurbaksh Singh (DSO & OBE) and Maj or Ranjnit Singh also belong to this place. 

In the village, there exists a smadh of Baba Guddar Shah who is said to have taken out the body of Ra Kaur, daughter of Maharaja Gajpat Singh buried in the large earthen vessel. Maharaja Gajpat Singh distributed large sweet thick cake of bread. Every year on the anniversary of Baba Guddar Shah, large sweet thick bread id baked and distributed as prasad. 

The village has a Government high school, a 4-bedded subsidiary health centre and a post office. Its population, in the 1971 Census was 4,476 persons.    

Bagrian. – Situated on the Malerkotla-Nabha road, Bagrian lies about 18 km south-east of Malerkotla. Though now in Malerkotla Tahsil, it was not part of the Malerkotla Princely State but was being ruled by the British. Bagrian was given to Bhais of the village by Bhikhan Khan, the Rais of Malerkotla State but it was captured by Britishers as the Sikhs of Bagrian were not in favour of the British.  

There is a fort at Bagrian which was built by S. Arjan Singh in the beginning of the 20th century. The Bhais still run langar (free kitchen) here daily. This tradition of langar was started from the time of Sri Hargobind the sixth Guru. For the preparation of langar wet fuel is used. It is said that the sixth Guru blessed that even wet fuel would work.  

In the fort, a gurudwara has been built whose design and size is that of Golden Temple.

At Bagrian, an industrial unit, namely ‘Bagrian Shoes’ for the manufacture of shoes is being set up, in the large-scale sector.

Barnala. – It is the headquarters of the subdivision and tahsil of the same name. A railway station on the Ambala-Bathinda railway line, Barnala is situated 37 km west of Sangrur on the Sangrur-Bathinda road. It is also connected by road with Ludhiana (76 km), Chandigarh (158 km) Moga (67 km. and Faridkot (90 km).

Baba Ala Singh, the founder of Patiala State, occupied it in 1722 when it was a small village and made it the capital of is rising principality till 1763, when the capital was shifted to Patiala. Ala Singh constructed a masonary wall around the town and built a fort, now known as Qila Mubarik, in the town. The fort now houses the courts of Additional District and Sessions Judge, etc. the town has well known agricultural market for the sale of wheat, paddy, cotton and maize. It is also known for the manufacture of modern agricultural implements. It is the birth place of S. Jita Singh, a contemporary of S. Sewa Singh Thikriwala. He laid down his life for the success of the Praja Mandal Movement and the uplift of depressed classes.

There are two government high schools, one each for boys and girls, 3 private high schools (two for boys and one for girls), 2 colleges, one each for boys and girls, civil hospital with 50 beds facilities and a P. W. D. Rest House, financing the facilities for suites.  

A class I municipal committee has been functioning here since April 1979. Its Population in the 1981 Census, was 45,203 persons as against 31,847 in 1971.

Bhadaur. – It was founded in 1718 by S. Duna Singh, brother of Maharaja Ala Singh of Patiala and since then it has remained the residence of the chiefs of Bhadaur.

It is situated at a distance of 27 km from Barnala on the Barnala-Jaito road. It is 64 km north-west of Sangrur, the district headquarters.

A fair known as Mata ka Mela is held here in the months of March-April which is dedicated to Shitla Mata, the goddess of small-pox. It is said that one Kirpa, a Balmiki by caste, got temple built and the idol of Shitla installed therein. On this day people worship the deity and offer animals like sheep, pigs, and goats. A large number of people, both Hindus and Sikhs, attend this fair.

A gurudwara has been built in the memory of Guru Gobind Singh who is said to have visited this place. A fair is held here on Baisakhi day. It is also associated with the memory of Baba Charan Dass whose smadh exists here. A big tank has been constructed here; both Hindus and Sikhs take a dip in the tank.  

There are two government high schools, one each for boys and girls and a 4 bedded civil dispensary at Bhadaur.

A class III municipal committee has been functioning here since 1956. Its population, in the 1981 Census, consisted of 13,331 persons as against 10,248 in 1971.

Bhawanigarh. – Situated at a distance of 19 km east of Sangrur, the district headquarters, in the Patiala-Sangrur road, Bhawanigarh is a sub-tahsil of the Sangrur Tahsil. It is also connected by road with Chandigarh (102 km), Patiala (37 km), Nabha (16 km) and Sunam (28 km).

Bhawanigarh was originally known as Dhodan, the name having been lent to it by Jats of Dhodan, a sub-clan of Bajha clan or got. Prior to independence, it was tahsil headquarters of Karamgarh Nizamat of Patiala Princely State.

As tradition has it, a sheep at the shrine of goddess Bhawani defended itself against two wolves, during the days of Baba Ala Singh who was prevailed upon by a sadhu to build on the spot a fort and name it Bhawanigarh. The fort was constructed in 1754.

There are a government higher secondary school for girls, a government high school for boys. A degree college and 4-bedded primary health centre at Bhawanigarh.

A class III Municipal Committee is functioning in the town since 1945. Its population, in the 1981 Census, was 12,976 as against 11,209 in 1971.

Bihla. – Situated at a distance of 13 km to the northeast of Barnala, Bihla falls in the Barnala Tahsil.  

Every year, a fair is held here for three days from 27 to 29 November. The fair is associated with Baba Buddha, a Sikh saint who performed the ‘Gurgaddi’ ceremony to the first six Sikh Gurus. The inhabitants of the village claim themselves to be the descendants of Baba Budha.

The village has a government high school, a subsidiary health centre and post office. Its population, as per 1971 Census, was 3,377 persons.

Chak Bhai ka. – It is the Barnala Tahsil and is 18 km from Raikot (Ludhiana District) by pucca road.

Chak Bhai Ka is associated with Guru Hargobind, the sixth Sikh Guru, who is said to have visited this place. A gurudwara has been built here where a fair is held on the Baisakhi day. A pair of shoes belonging to the Guru has been preserved in the gurudwara where the people assemble to have its darshans. People also take a holy dip in the tank on this day.  

A primary school and a post office are functioning the village. As per 1971 Census its population was 998 persons.

Cheema. – Situated at distance of 7 km west of Sunam, Cheema falls in Sangrur Tahsil and is 20 km south-west of Sangrur. It is the birth place of Sant Baba Attar Singh, who is revered equally by all sections of people in the area. Janam Asthan Gurudwara at Cheema has been constructed in his memory by his follower, Baba Teja Singh. This gurudwara has been constructed on the pattern of gurudwara Attal of Amritsar. It is a nine-storey building constructed after demolishing the old ancestral house of Sant Baba Attar Singh. A tank has also been constructed where people take bath. A fair is held at this place in the month of chet of the amavas (new moon) day, which is attended by a large number of his followers from far and near. Another gurudwara Nanaksar also exists here, which is said to have been constructed by Baba Attar Singh. Cheema has a government high school and a 25 bedded rural hospital. Its populations as per 1971 Census was 4,848 persons.

Dhadogal. – This village lies in the Malerkotla Tahsil and is 11 km from Dhuri on the Dhuri-Nabha road.

A fair is held at this place to commemorate the martyrdom of Bhagat Singh of this village. He was a co-worker of Sardar Sewa Singh of Thikriwala. He agitated for the freedom of the people and worked against the Britishers and then against the ruler of erstwhile Patiala State. He was jailed by the then Maharaja of Patiala and sent of Narnaul where he died. His dead body was brought to this village for funeral rites. This fair is held from the 24th of sawan (July-August) for three days and a large number of people attend this fair. Besides, a fair known as Gugga Naumi is also held on Bhadon Badi 9 (August-September) for one day at this place and about 20,000 people attend it.

The village has a government middle school and 4-bedded subsidiary health centre. Its population, in the 1971 Census was 2,031 persons. 

Dhanaula. -- Situated 18 km west of Sangrur, the district headquarters, Dhanaula lies on the Sangrur-Barnala road. It falls in the Barnala Tahsil and is about 8 km from Barnala.

Dhanaula was founded by Gurditta, eldest son of Taloka, 1775 Bikrami (A. D. 1718). It remained the capital of erstwhile Princely State of Nabha upto 1755 when Raja Hamir Singh founded Nabha town and made it the capital of the State. He also built a fort here which now houses the police station of Dhanaula. 

A temple of Hanuman exist here. It is said that a man was digging a ditch and found an idol Hanuman. A temple was constructed at that place, the idol was placed there, and the people began to worship it. A fair known as Hanuman Mela is held in the temple on every Tuesday.

Durga Mela, dedicated to goddess Durga, is also held in March April and September-October for one day each. Some people perform the first hair-cutting of their children here.

In the memory of a pir whose tomb exist here, a fair is held in the Pir Khan da dera on the first Thursday of Bhadon (August-September), Magher (November-December) and Phagan (February-March) for one day.

There are two government high schools, one each for boys and girls and 130 bedded rural hospital and police station at Dhanaula.

A Cattle fair is also held here. Its population, as per the 1918 Census, was 13,885 persons as against 11,877 in 1971. 

Dhilwan (Nabha). – Situated at a distance of 25 km from Barnala, Dhilwan falls in Barnala Tahsil and is 4 km north of Tapa on the Tapa-Moga road. It is called Dhilwan (Nabha) because earlier it formed part of the Nabha Princely State. 

It is associated with the visit of Guru Tegh Bhadur, the ninth Sikh Guru. Gurudwara Damdama Sahib has been built here in the memory of the Guru, who is said to have stayed here for 9 days. A fair is held here for two days on the Baisakhi day. On this occasion, people take bath in the tank built near the gurudwara. Religious discourses, poetical conferences and games are held at the fair.

Its population in the 1971 Census was 2,501 persons. A government high school, a post office, 25 bedded rural hospital and a veterinary hospital are functioning in the village.

Dhuri. – Situated at a distance of 14 km from Sangrur, the district headquarters, it is a railway junction on the Ludhiana-Jakhal and Bathinda-Ambala railway lines. It is also well connected by road with Ludhiana (61 km), Chandigarh (126 km), and Malerkotla (18 km). Dhuri is a sub-tahsil of the Malerkotla Tahsil.

Dhuri is fast developing town. A sugar mill in the co-operative sector is functioning here. A number of small-scale industrial units engaged in the manufacture of agricultural implements have been established here. It is also famous for the manufacture of steel furniture.

There are a private higher secondary school for boys, two government high schools, one each for boys and girls, two private high schools for boys, one civil hospital with 31 beds facility, one Northern Railway health Unit wit 5 beds facility, one Vardhman Mahvir Jain Charitable Eye Hospital, with 18 beds, one Zimindara Rest House and a Ware-housing Godown at Dhuri.

Constituted as small town committee in 1945, it is now a class II municipal committee since 1954. Its population as per the 1981 Census was 27,094 against 19,300 in 1971.

Gharachon. – Situated in Sangrur Tahsil on the Sangrur-Patiala road, it is 11 km east of Sangrur and 10 km south-west of Bhawanigarh.

A fair known a kela kuti is held on Phagan Sudi 3 (February-March) for three days. The legend goes that about 5,000 years ago there lived one Baba Faqiria. Once he was sitting on a wall and Emperor Shah Jahan riding on a horse happened to pass that way. Baba Faqiria by his spirituals powers made the wall to walk along with the Emperor’s horse. Astonished at this miracle, the Emperor touched feet of the Baba and gave him 12 bighas of land in village Gharachon. The Baba constructed his kuti (hut) there where a mela is held every year.

A government high school for boys, 4 bedded subsidiary health centre and a post office are functioning in the village. Its population as per the 1971 Census was 3,684 persons.  

Hadiaya. – Situated in the Barnala Tahsil, it lies at a distance of about 5 km south of Barnala, the tahsil headquarters.

It was a tahsil in the erstwhile Nizamat of Anahadarh (Barnala) Hadiaya was founded by Baba Subha, the brother of Baba Ala Singh of Patiala some 275 years ago. Hadiaya means the market of hundis. This tiny village was once of great commercial importance which it gradually lost to the up coming town of Barnala. This place has become of some interest since 1965 when a double-storey house sank into the ground all at once and several other buildings thereafter have met the same fate. 

There is a gurudwara associated with Guru Tegh Bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru, who is said to have visited this place in 1722 Bikrami (1665 AD), and sat under the tree. At that time a fatal disease had broken in the village a patient came to the Guru and told about his disease. The Guru told him to take bath in the chhapar (pond) in which hides were washed. The patient was hesitant to take bath. The Guru himself took bath in it and brought out some mud and blessed that it is a tank of Guru, whosoever will lake bath with devotion will be cured. Till the inhabitants took bath in it and were cured. People assemble here on the amavas day of every month for the holy dip in tank.

Fair are also held on amavas and purnmashi every month for one day each in the memory of a saint, Sant Kaleranwale, in whose honour as gurudwara has also been constructed here.

A fair known as Durga ka Mela is also held for one day in temple dedicated to goddess Durga in the months of March-Aril and September-October. The people perform mundan ceremony of their children in this temple.

There are a government high school for boys, 4 bedded sub-sidiary health centre and canal rest hose at Hadiaya.

Its population in the 1971 Census, was 7,3653 persons.  

Jandali. – Situated on the bank of Bathinda Branch of Sirhind Canal, Jandali Kalan lies 5 km south-east of Ahmedgarh. It falls in Malerkotla Tahsil.

There exists a gurudwara called Damdama Sahib said to be associated with the visit of the Guru Hargobind, the sixth Sikh Guru who took rest here after hunting. He is said to have continuously visited this place for six months, for taking ret and that is why this place is known as Damdama Sahib. It is said that while fighting with the army of Ahmed Shah Abdali, a group of Sikhs led by Sardar Nahar Singh was killed at this place.

It is only after 1947 that a small building of the gurudwara was built. Nowa more spacious building of the gurudwara is coming up. Its foundation stone was laid down by Sant Ishar Singh Rarewala on 9 March 1966. A large number of people especially from Doaba area visit this place. A fair on the Dashmi of each month is held at is place and is attended by a large number of persons. An annual fair on the Dashmi of Magh (December-January) is also held here.

The population of this village as per 1971 Census was 1,078 persons.

Kup. —This village falls in Malerkotla Tahsil and is 8 km south-east of Ahmedgarh and 12 km north of Malerkotla, the tahsil headquarters on the Ludhiana-Jakhal railway line. A gurudwara exists here in the memory of 30,000 Sikhs who were killed while fighting with the army of Ahmed Shah Abdali on 28 Maghar 1818 Bidrami (A.D. 1761). The Sikhs fought under the command of S. Jassa Singh Ahluwalia, S. Jassa Singh Ramgaria, S. Charat Singh Shukarchakia, S. Sham Singh, Baba Dip Singh Shahid, S. Baghel Singh Kroria etc. Ahmed Shah Abdali who was fed up with the Sikhs instructed his appointed Commissioners of Jalandhar, Sirhind, and Malerkotla to stop the Sikhs from advancing toward the Satluj. Thus stopped, the Sikhs were than attacked by Ahmed Shah Abdali with two lakh persons. When the Sikhs reached near Rajpur (Ludhiana), the subedars of Sirhind, Jalandhar, and Nawab of Malerkotla etc. stopped the Sikhs from advancing further. As a result a large number of Sikhs were killed.

There are a private high school and a 10 bedded rural hospital at kup.

A large fair is held here in the month of October. Its population in the 1971 Census was 1,826 persons.

Kutba Bahamnia. – It is in the Barnala Tahsil and lies about 6 km west of Malerkotla and 6 km south of Dhanaula.

At this place, a gurudwara has been built to commemorate the memory of 30,000 sikhs who were killed while fighting with the forces of Ahmed Shah Abdali. A big fair is held here in the month of February each year.

A middle school, a subsidiary health centre, and a veterinary hospital is functioning here. Its population as per the 1971 Census was 1,103 persons.

Ladda. – Situated in Malerkotla Tahsil it is about 6 km south of Dhuri and 6 km north of Sangrur on the Sangrur –Malerkotla road.

A fair of Gugga Naumi is held at this place on Bhadon badi 9 (August-September) for one day. The legend goes that somebody brought two bricks from the Gugga marhi of Bagar. He placed these bricks in his fields and the next morning when he came to lift these bricks he could not do it despite attempts. People regarded it as miracle and a fair began to be held at the place. The marhi was later on re-built by the Nawab of Malerkotla.

The village has a high school, a canal dispensary (4 bedded), a veterinary dispensary and a post office.

It population as per 1971 Census was 2,523 persons.

Lehragaga. – Situated on the Ludhiana—Jakhal railway line, Lehragaga is a sub-tahsil of Sunam Tahsil. By road it is 26 km 155 km from Chandigarh. It is also linked by pucca road with Patran (14 km) and Jakhal (14 km).

Lehragaga consists of two villages, Lehra and Gaga. A gurudwara exists at Gaga which is associated with the visit of Guru Tagh Bahadur the ninth Sikh Guru, on his way to Delhi.

In Lehragaga, monkeys are found in abundance but they are not killed by the people. It is also called ‘Lehra Bandran da’. The main crops in the area are wheat, cotton, groundnut and bajra paddy is also grown but in less quantity.

Lehragaga is a block headquarters. A class II municipal committee has been functioning here since 19 September 1956. There are two high schools here, one each for boys and girls. A dispensary and a veterinary dispensary are also functioning here. A. P. W. D. rest house and a Zimindara Rest House has also been constructed here.

Its population as per the 1981 Census was 12,238 Persons.

Longowal. – Known earlier as Lalgarh, lies 18 km south-west of Sangrur on the Sangrur on the Sangrur-Barnala road. It falls in the Sangrur Tahsil. This town was founded by Baba Ala Singh, the founder of the Patiala State.

Bhai Mani Singh, who sacrificed his life by getting the joints of his body cut by the Muslim rulers, hailed from this place. A gurudwara has been built here where a fair his held on Maghar 27 (November-December) for three days to commemorate the martyrdom of Bhai Mani Singh.

Sardar Bhagwan Singh who was one of the founders of Praja Mandal, was the resident of Longowal. He sacrificed his life for liberation of the oppressed people of the princely state. Longowal is also the birthplace of Giani Gian Singh, a noted Sikh historian.

There are two government high schools one each for boys and girls, a 30 bedded rural hospital, a primary health centre, a post and telegraph office and a canal rest house at Longowal. 

At Longowal, a class III municipal committee is functioning since September 1956. Its population as per the 1981 Census was 12,976 persons.

Mastuana. – Situated at a distance of 6 km west of Sangrur on the Sangrur-Barnala road, Mastuana was built by Sant Attar Singh, a pious man of Cheema. It is name after Mastu, a Jat, who donated his forest land to the saint. Sant Baba Attar Singh constructed a gurudwara, Gursagar, and a tank here. He also started a high school here. Now a degree college has also been functioning here since 1920. A jor mela is held here for three days on 29, 30 and 31 January every year. Sant Baba Attar Singh was cremated here and a big congregation is held on 3 July every year.

There are a degree college, a private higher secondary school for boys and a 4 bedded subsidiary health centre at Mastuana.

Malerkotla. – Headquarters of the tahsil/subdivision of the same name, Malerkotla is situated on the Ludhiana—Sangrur road at a distance of 32 km north of Sangrur, the district headquarters. It is also connected by road with Ludhiana (43 km) Chandigarh (123 km) Nabha (51 km) Patiala, etc. It is a railway station on the Ludhiana—Jakhal railway line.

The town of Malerkotla was divided into two parts—Maler and Kotla. The Malerkotla has probably been named after Malher Singh who is said to have been ruling here. He is said to have constructed a kachha fort here which was called Malhergarh. It is also said that Malher (now Maler) was founded by Sadr-u-Din in 1466 who was a Sarwani Afghan of Daraband. He was a very pious man and a disciple of Pir Rukhan Alam of Multan (Pakistan). He left the Pir and settled at Bhumsi in the remains of the Malhergarh. Behlol Lodhi stayed here on way to Delhi and met Sadr-ud-Din and was so impressed with him that when he became the king of Delhi, he married his daughter Taj with Sadr-un-Din alongwith 68 villages in dowry. Around the hut of Sadr-ud-Din emerged basti. It was named Malher after the fort Malhergarh, which later on came to known as Maler.

The Kotla portion of Malerkotla was established by Bayazid Khan in 1656 in the south of Maler. It was a walled town with a number of gates. These gates were closed at night. The distanced between Maler and Kotla has been linked by constructing Moti Bazar in the 1901-02 by Nawab Ahmed Ali Khan. It was earlier named Kotla Maler and later on named Malerkotla.

Malerkotla town was capital of the erstwhile princely State of Malerkotla, prior to the formation of PEPSU on 1 September 1948 when it was made a tahsil of the Barnala District of PEPSU. Again in 1956, when PEPSU was merged with Punjab it was made a tahsil of Sangrur District and since then it has continued to be so.

There area government college, two government high schools one each for boys and girls, 5 private high schools, 4 for boys and one for girls, a 50 bedded civil hospital, a 4 bedded urban slum area dispensary, one E. S. I. Dispensary, one 5 bedded Dr. Daya Krishan Jain Janta Hospital, one P. W. D. and one Zamindara Rest House at Malerkotla.

A municipal committee has been functioning here since 1905. It is now a class I municipality. Its population as per the 1981 Census was 65,759 persons.

Malerkotla is the only industrial town of worth the name in the district. A large number of small-scale industrial units are functioning in the town. It is now well known for the manufacture of a few cycle parts, agricultural implements. Similarly in the field of agriculture especially growing of vegetables, Malerkotla is famous place. The cauliflower of this area is marketed throughout Punjab. Methi of the area is also of high quality and is famous for its taste and odour.

A fair is held on January 17 and 18 for two days every year to commemorate the martyrdom of 66 Namdharis during the anti-cow slaughter movement. Under the orders of the British authority, 49 Namdharis were blown away with canons and one cut down by sword on 17 January 1872 without trial. Another sixteen were blown away by canons after summary trial on 18 January 1872.

A fair known as Mela Hazrat Sheikh Sadr-u-Din is also held in May-June and September-October for one day each in the memory of Sheikh Sadr-u-Din who founded the Malerkotla State during the time of Behlol Lodhi. People belonging to all communities attend this fair. Visitors from other districts also come to attend this fair. Offerings of be-goats are also made.

The other places worth seeing in Malerkotla town are:

Sheesh Mahal

It was the residence of the Nawab of Malerkotla. In this palace, glass has been used extensively hence known as Sheesh Mahal.

Jama Masjid

This Masjid is an old building of the town built during the times of princely state. It is still very well maintained.

Moonak. – Situated on the bank of Ghaggar River at a distance 45 km south of Sunam. Moonak lies on the Jakhal-Patiala road. It is 5 km form Jakhal (Haryana) by road. It is a sub-tahsil of the Sunam Tahsil. Prior to the formation of PEPSU, it was in the erstwhile princely state of Patiala. It was also called Akalgarh. In 1916, it was the headquarters of the court of appeal and continued to be so till 1945. Maharaja Karam Singh of Patiala was married at Moonak.

There is an old fort ‘Qila Mubarik’ said to have been built in the Muslim period. In the fort, there was a well whose water was not good for health. Hardened prisoners of Patiala State were sent to this place where they died after a few days. Peacocks are found here abundance, and they move about quite freely. They are neither caught nor killed by the people.

There is a gurudwara associated with the visit of Guru Teg Bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru. A tank has also been built where people take bath.

Two high schools (one for boys and one for girls), a 30-bedded rural hospital, a veterinary dispensary, a sub-treasury, a post and telegraph office and the telephone exchange are functioning here.

Wheat, gram, oil seeds, cotton and paddy are the crops grown in the area.

Its population as per the Census of Census of 1971 was 6,452 persons.

Mulowal. – Situated at distance of 13 km west of Dhuri, Mulowal lies on the Dhuri-Barnala road. It falls in the Barnala Tahsil, some 15 km east of Barnala. This place is associated with the visits of Guru Teg Bahadur, the ninth Sikh Guru, and Guru Gobind Singh, the tenth Sikh Guru. Guru Teg Bahadur is said to have stayed here for four days and laid the foundation of Gurudwara Manji Sahib by laying four bricks and blessed that whosoever will look after this place will be bestowed with all happiness. A small pond existed on the way to village Sekha where Guru Teg Bahadur used to bath. He blessed that whosoever will have a dip in this pond on the amavas day, all his sufferings will vanish. A brick laid by the Guru has been recovered from the pond on which the following words have been engraved: --

IU skb d[y GziB fJe ;dh w?A gorN j? .

(17 January 1663)

A hukmnama said to have been of Guru Gobind Singh dated 15 poh 1761 Sambat (December-January 1704) is also preserved here. It was found when the building of the old gurudwara was being demolished and new one was being constructed. It is written in the hukmnama, that Guru Gobind Singh will appear at this place every year here on 15 poh (December-January).

A big fair is held on 15 poh every year. People assemble here on amavas day every month.

Ranike. – Situated at a distance of 8 km west of Dhuri, Ranike lies on the Dhuri-Barnala road. There exists an ancient Shiv Mandir in the village. It is said that Shivling appeared at this place. On the Shivratri day, a large fair is held at this place. A large number of people from Haryana, Rajasthan and Himachal Pradesh also come here for worship and offer water to Shivling. About 50,000 people gather here on this day. It is said that childless women, if they stay for a pre-Shivratri night at this place and worship Shiva, are blessed with a child.  

Sangrur. – Headquarter of the district and tahsil of the same name. Sangrur is situated on the Ludhiana-Jakhal railway line. By road, it is connected with Patiala (56 km) Ludhiana (52 km), Chandigarh (121 km), and Bathinda (112 km). It remained capital of the erstwhile princely state of Jind till 1948, when the princely state was abolished. 

The town of Sangrur is said to have been founded by one Sanghu, a jat, about 400 years ago and named after him. Formerly, a small village of mud houses, it was chosen as his capital in 1827 by Raja Sangat Singh, as it was close to Patiala and Nabha, the headquarters of the other two Phulkian State. After the fall of Sirhind in A. D. 1763 when Zain Khan, the Governor of Sirhind, a protégé of Ahmed Shah Abdli, was defeated by the Sikhs, and the province of Sirhind was partitioned among the Phulkian Sardars, the town of Sangrur became a part of Nabha State. However, on the occasion of marriage of Sardar Mahan Singh Shukarchakya, the father of Maharaja Ranjit Singh, with Raj kaur, the daughter of Raja Gajpat Singh of Jind, a quarrel arose between the two Phulkian states of Jind and Nabha when some members of the marriage party passing through Nabha territory were insulted by some high officials of Nabha, Subsequently, the town of Sangrur was snatched by Raja Gajpat Singh of Jind from Raja Hamir Singh of Nabha. 

The town was later on developed into a beautiful city. Raja Raghbir Singh constructed a bazaar on the lines of Jaipur town (Rajasthan) with pucca shops, gardens, tanks, temples and other public and religious buildings; a metalled road was also constructed around the city. He also constructed gurudwaras and mandirs on all the gates.

The city has four gates-the Sunami, Patiala, Dhuri, and Nabha-gates, each named after the neighbouring town located in that direction. The city is surrounded by beautiful gardens and shops. The most attractive place in the city is the Bansar Garden with marble baradari in the centre of the swimming tanks.

The baradari has a beautiful bridge and marble gate. The rulers of Jind State used to spend their summers here. It presents a splendid view during moonlit nights due to reflections in water surrounding it. These days Banasar Garden is, open to public and in the evenings many people have a stroll there just for relaxation. There is also a mini zoo in the Banasar Garden. Adjacent to Banasar, there is another important building known as Diwankhana. Here, Raja of Jind used to hold Darbar during the princely times. At present there is a beautiful museum wherein weapons and other important articles belonging to princely times have been displayed. The splendour of Diwankhana and Baradari convinces one of the high attainments in the field of art and architecture during princely times.  

There are two degree colleges, two government higher secondary schools one each for boys and girls, two private high schools one each for boys and girls, one civil hospital with 100 beds, one urban slum area dispensary, on T. B. clinic with 18 beds, one police line hospital with 16 beds, one sainik rest house, one P. W. D. rest-house and one Zimndara rest house at Sangrur.

About 5 km from Nabha Gate, Sangrur, is situated Gurudwara Nankiana Sahib. It is said that Shri Guru Nanak Dev, the first Sikh Guru and Shri Hargobind, the 6th Sikh Guru, visited this place. It is said that Shri Guru Nanak Dev wrote Aarti at this place. Further it is believed that Shri Guru Hargobind tied his horse with the karir tree/plant. The karir tree/plant, now known as Karir Sahib is still there on the top of the gurudwara. A large number of people visit this place.

Sunam. – Sunam is a tahsil and sub division of the Sangrur District. Situated on the Ludhiana-Hisar railway line, it is connected by road with Patiala (64 km), Sangrur (19 km), Bathinda (114 km), Ludhiana (90 km), and Chandigarh (129 km).

The history of Sunam goes back to the Vedic period, when its name was Surajpur. The Saraswati River is believed to have flowed by it. [P1]  The modern town was built within the walls of an old fort into which its inhabitants were driven to take refuge. It is divided into two parts, one in the citadel of the fort and the other on the lowland around it. Though now of little importance, Sunam has played a significant part in the history of the Punjab after the Muhammadan invasion; Al-Baruni mentions it as a famous place of that period. ‘Sunam’ in Sanskrit means auspicious name, but some say that it was named after Sona, a Gujari, who guided Muhammad of Ghor to conquer the fort of Bathinda and Asked him to give Sunam as her reward. Others accept a derivation from Sunam, which in Aravic means the hump of a camel. When Qutb-un-Din Aibak saw that the place had this shape he named it Sunam, but this etymology is untenable, as the town is said to have assumed its present shape only after Taimur’s invasion (AD 1398). Sunam was held by Hindu Rajas till conquered by Muhammad of Ghor. Sultan Shams-ud-Din Altmash gave it to his page Sher Khan in Jagir. Ghais-ud-Din balban gave it to Timar Khan, with Samana, (now in Patiala District), on the death of his cousin Sher Khan, and subsequently conferred it on his own son Bughra Khan. Under Muhammad Shah Tughlaq, its dependent tribe revolted. Firoz Shah brought a canal through Sirhind and Mansurpur to the town in 1360, and in 1398 Taimur attacked it. It is an ancient site, and by digging 40 of 50 feet deep, statues, big bricks and bones are found. In the time of Akbar, it was a Pargana of Sirhind. During Muslim rule, Sunam was a centre of politics like Samana and Sirhind (now in Patiala District).

Baba Ala Singh, the founder of the erstwhile Patiala State, had won this town from Muslim rulers.

Akbar’s courtier Abul Fazal has recorded in his Ain-i-Akbar ri that Emperor Akbar often came to Sunam on hunting expeditions.

The town was famous for its seat of learning Dar-ul-Uloom where theology was taught to Muslims drawn from far and near. [P2] The important and ancient places in the town are described below:

Sita Sar

It is ancient tank spread over 80 bighas. It is said that Sita, wife of Rama, washed her hair in this tank when she was turned out of the house by Rama. Even now the widows of the surrounding area come her and wash their heir. It is also said that at one time kumb fair of the Punjab was held here. This tank, it is said, was filed with the water of River Saraswati. The tank is, now, not in good condition. Shiv Mandirs have been built in the south west and north of the tank. A small Shitla Mata Mandir has also been built in the south of the tank in which an ancient idol of mata has been installed.

Suraj Kund

This building is situated in the east of the town at the distance of about 11/2 km. The theh of Surajpur of Sunam is also very near. At one time it was spread over a large area. At this place, a large Mandir of Sun god existed but, it is said Mahmood Ghaznvi or Taimur demolished it. It is also said that River Saraswati was flowing near the Suraj Kund.

There are, now three small temples at this place. The Suraj Kund is now in a dilapidated condition.

Khangah Pir Bana Banoi

It is an old building in the city and a monument of the Muslims. A mosque has been built in the building in the north-west of the grave of Pir Bana Banoi. Pir Bana Banoi whose real name is said to be Mohmood or Khawaja Mahmood was a Sayyad by caste. Before the partition of the country, a big fair used to be held here in the month of Chet (March-April) in which people from Peshawar, Multan, Rawalpindi and Lohore (now in Pakistan) used to attend. Professional dancers used to dance and qawwalis were sung at the fair.

This place is revered by al sections of people of the area. It is said that Pir Bana Banoi killed the then ruler of the Surajpur Fort who was in the habit of keeping the newly wedded brides of the town for first three nights.

It is also believed that people visited by evil spirits are cured when they put their head in a hole in the west of the outer-gate of the Khangah.

Samadh Bhai Mool Chand

This samadh is situated in the South-east of the town. This Place is equally revered by the Hindus and Sikhs of the town. They pray for the fulfillment of their desired, which it is said, are fulfilled.

Bhai Mool Chand was a Khatri (Duggal) by caste. His faster was a shopkeeper at Bathinda. He wanted his son join the same trade. But Bhai Mool Chand was least interested as from the very childhood he remained occupied in meditation. It also said that he was born with a long grey bodi (hair knot). He was the disciple of Pandit Ganga Ram who was of saintly nature. Bhai Mool Chand also became a saint by nature. Big sardars of the area started revering him. Even Baba Ala Singh, the founder of Patiala State, held him in high esteem and made frequent visits to his place. Gurditta, a chaudhary of Sangrur also gave him due respect. 

Bhai Mool Chand was well-known in the area for his spiritual attainments. Guru Teg Bhahadur too recognized his intense spirituality even when the Bhai was a child.

Sunam is the birth place of the great martyr Udham Singh who shot dead Sir Michael O’ Dyer on 13 March 1940 in London and took revenge from him of the 1919 jalianwala Bagh massacre at Amritsar. Later on, Udham Singh was hanged on death by British authorities on 31 July 1940 on which date every year a Shaheedi Mela is held at Sunam with great enthusiasm to pay homage to the great Indian martyr. In the memory of Shaheed Udham Singh, his statue has been installed in the town. A stadium has also been built in the memory of the martyr.

There are a degree college, a government higher secondary school for girls, a government high school for boys private high schools, one 50 bedded hospital and a Zimindara rest house at Sunam.

There is class II municipal committee at Sunam. Its Population in the 1981 Census was 36,180 persons, as against 26,966 in 1971.

Tapa. – Situated on the Ambala-Bathinda railway line, Tapa is a sub-tahsil of Barnala Tahsil. It lies 19 km South-east of Barnala and 46 km from Bathinda. By road it is 47 km from Sangrur, the district headquarters. It is also connected by road with Ludhiana (97 km) and Chandigarh (168 km).

The town is said to have been named after Tapa Rama, a disciple of Baba Sukha Nand who spent his life in meditation. Two fairs are held every year on his smadh. 

A fair on chet chaudash is held for one day in the month of March-April in the memory of Baba Sukha Nand, whose math exists here. People have great faith in him and do not take false oaths when his name is invoked. People of all communities join in the celebrations of their fair.

There are two night schools, one each for boys and girls, a private high school for boys, one 8 bedded primary health centre and a Zimindara rest house at Tapa.

Its population in the 1981 Census was 8,467 persons, as against 6,220 in the 1971 Census. It has a class III municipality.

Thikriwala. – Situated in the Barnala Tahsil, it is linked with pucca road and 5 km from the tahsil headquarters, in the north.

To commemorate the martyrdom of Sardar Sewa Singh, a fair is held for three days in the months of January-February at this place. Sardar Sewa Singh Thikriwala formed Praja Mandal in the then Patiala State and pressed hard for the fulfillment of the political and other demands of the public before the then ruler, Maharaja Bhupinder Singh. He was put behind the bars where he went on hunger strike and died. A large number of people attend this fair.

A fair is also held on the Baisakhi day every year in the memory of Baba Buta, a Sidhu, and obeisance is paid at his smadh. About 8,000 people, both Sikhs and Hindus, come to attend this fair. Horse and chariot races, and weight-lifting and wrestlings are arranged on this occasion.

The village has a government high school, a 25 bedded rural hospital and a post office. Its population in the 1971 Census was 4,804 persons.                           

 

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 [P1]The Tribune, dated 9 August 1983

 [P2]Ibid